Faq's
Laminates
What laminate thickness should I use for kitchen shutters and cabinets?
What laminate thickness should I use for kitchen shutters and cabinets?
For kitchen shutters and cabinet fronts, use 1 mm laminate — it resists daily knocks, heat and cleaning far better than 0.8 mm. Reserve 0.8 mm for low-touch vertical surfaces like wardrobe interiors, side panels and false ceilings, where cost and easy bending matter more. For heavy-wear worktops, step up to a 1.5 mm+ or compact/post-forming grade. Most of our laminates come as 8×4 ft sheets.
What is the difference between 0.8 mm and 1 mm laminate?
What is the difference between 0.8 mm and 1 mm laminate?
The figure is the sheet thickness. 0.8 mm is thinner, more flexible and slightly cheaper — ideal for wardrobe interiors, panelling and curved or low-touch surfaces. 1 mm is the everyday standard for shutters, tabletops and anything touched or cleaned often, with better dent, scratch and heat resistance. The design range is similar across both; choose by where the surface goes and how much wear it takes.
How do I choose between matte, gloss and textured laminate finishes?
How do I choose between matte, gloss and textured laminate finishes?
Match the finish to the room. High-gloss looks premium and reflects light but shows fingerprints and fine scratches — best for feature walls and low-touch areas. Matte/suede hides marks, so it suits kitchens, wardrobes and busy family spaces. Textured wood-grain (synchronised) finishes add a natural, tactile real-wood feel. We stock 40,000+ designs across 50+ brands in matte, gloss, textured and metallic — filter by finish on any laminate collection.
Are your laminates suitable for kitchens and other high-moisture areas?
Are your laminates suitable for kitchens and other high-moisture areas?
Yes — standard 1 mm decorative laminates handle kitchen humidity and regular cleaning well, provided the edges are properly banded and sealed so water can't seep behind. In splash-prone zones, bond them to a moisture-resistant substrate such as BWR/BWP plywood or HDHMR/MDF. For constantly wet areas, ask us about compact (high-pressure) laminate, which stays stable even with direct water contact. Most laminate failures start at unsealed edges, so always seal them.
Veneers
What is the difference between veneer and laminate?
What is the difference between veneer and laminate?
Veneer is a thin slice of real wood bonded to plywood or MDF — every sheet has unique natural grain and can be polished, stained and refinished over the years. Laminate is a printed decorative surface (paper + resin) that is more uniform, more scratch- and heat-resistant and lower maintenance. Choose veneer for a premium, natural-wood look on feature walls, wardrobes and tables; choose laminate for durability, consistency and value in high-use areas.
Do natural wood veneers need polishing or sealing after installation?
Do natural wood veneers need polishing or sealing after installation?
Yes. Because veneer is real wood, it should be sealed and finished after fitting — usually with melamine, PU (polyurethane) or a lacquer coat — to protect the surface and lock in the grain and colour. PU gives the most durable, moisture-resistant finish; melamine is the budget option. Re-coating every few years keeps it looking fresh, and unlike laminate, small scratches can be sanded and re-polished rather than replaced.
Can wood veneer be used in kitchens or moisture-prone areas?
Can wood veneer be used in kitchens or moisture-prone areas?
Veneer works in kitchens if it is finished with a good-quality PU/PU-lacquer coat and applied over a moisture-resistant substrate (BWR/BWP ply). Keep it away from constant water — around the sink and hob, laminate or acrylic is a safer, lower-maintenance choice. For the rest of the kitchen (tall units, upper shutters, dining-side panels) a well-sealed veneer performs well and adds a warm, natural character that laminate can't fully match.
How do I clean and care for wood veneer surfaces?
How do I clean and care for wood veneer surfaces?
Wipe with a soft, dry or slightly damp cloth and mild soap — never harsh chemicals, thinners or abrasive scrubbers, which strip the finish. Blot spills quickly so moisture doesn't sit on the surface, and avoid placing very hot items directly on it. Dust regularly and re-coat with polish/PU every few years to maintain sheen and protection. Being real wood, most marks can be buffed out rather than needing replacement.
Louvers
What is the difference between PVC, charcoal (WPC) and MDF louvers?
What is the difference between PVC, charcoal (WPC) and MDF louvers?
PVC louvers are 100% waterproof, lightweight and ideal for bathrooms, balconies and exteriors, but look more synthetic. Charcoal/WPC louvers (wood-plastic composite) balance a natural wood-grain look with strong water and termite resistance — the popular all-rounder for feature walls and TV units. MDF louvers give the richest, most premium finish for dry indoor areas but aren't moisture-resistant. Choose by location: wet/outdoor → PVC, indoor feature walls → charcoal/WPC, dry premium interiors → MDF.
Are louver panels suitable for bathrooms and outdoor walls?
Are louver panels suitable for bathrooms and outdoor walls?
For bathrooms, balconies and exterior facades, use PVC or WPC/charcoal louvers — they are waterproof, termite- and rot-resistant and won't swell with humidity. Avoid MDF louvers in any wet or outdoor area, as they absorb moisture and warp. For covered outdoor use, also check the product's UV resistance so the colour doesn't fade. Each louver product lists its base material and indoor/outdoor suitability so you can filter to the right one.
How are louver panels installed — can I do it myself?
How are louver panels installed — can I do it myself?
Louvers are fixed to a level wall or plywood backing with adhesive plus concealed screws or pins, then finished with matching trims at the edges and joints. On flat, sound walls a confident DIYer can fit PVC/WPC louvers, but for large feature walls, uneven surfaces or ceilings we recommend a carpenter for clean alignment and mitred corners. Panels come in fixed lengths, so plan your layout and cuts first to minimise visible joints.
Plywood
What is the difference between BWP, BWR, MR and commercial plywood?
What is the difference between BWP, BWR, MR and commercial plywood?
The grade tells you how much water the glue line can take. MR (Moisture Resistant) handles humidity but not standing water — fine for wardrobes, beds and general indoor furniture. BWR (Boiling Water Resistant) uses a stronger resin and suits kitchens and utility areas that see regular splashing. BWP (Boiling Water Proof), also sold as marine ply, survives prolonged water contact and is what you want under a sink, in a bathroom vanity or anywhere permanently damp. Commercial is the economy grade for dry, low-stress work like backing panels and false ceilings. Paying for marine ply on a bedroom wardrobe is money that would be better spent on a thicker board.
Which plywood should I use for a kitchen?
Which plywood should I use for a kitchen?
Use BWR at minimum for kitchen carcasses, and BWP/marine for the sink unit and anything below the counter where a leak would sit unnoticed. Look for a hardwood core rather than a soft one — it holds screws and hinges far better over years of daily opening. 18–19 mm for carcasses and shutters, 12 mm for back panels and drawer bottoms. The grade matters more than the brand: a BWR board from a lesser-known mill outlasts an MR board from a famous one in the same spot.
How is plywood priced — and what does price per square foot actually include?
How is plywood priced — and what does price per square foot actually include?
Plywood is quoted per square foot and a standard sheet is 8 × 4 ft, so 32 sq ft. Multiply the rate by 32 for a per-sheet figure. The rate moves with three things: grade (commercial → MR → BWR → BWP, each step up), thickness (4, 6, 9, 12, 16, 18/19 and 25 mm), and core timber. Two boards at the same headline rate can differ a lot — check the actual core, the number of plies and whether it carries an IS certification. We are happy to quote current rates by phone or at either showroom; we do not publish a rate card because it moves.
What thickness of plywood do I need?
What thickness of plywood do I need?
A rough guide for interior work: 18–19 mm for wardrobe and kitchen carcasses, shutters and anything load-bearing; 12 mm for back panels, drawer bottoms and partitions; 9 mm for light panelling and false-ceiling framework; 6 mm for backing and lipping. Shelves longer than about 3 ft want 19 mm or a mid-support, or they will bow under weight within a year or two.
What should I look for in a plywood brand?
What should I look for in a plywood brand?
Look past the name to four things: the grade (BWP/BWR/MR) and whether it is stamped on the board, the core timber (hardwood or gurjan holds fasteners better than poplar), an IS certification — IS:710 for marine, IS:303 for MR/BWR — and the warranty, which tells you what the mill itself believes. We stock several brands across grades at both showrooms precisely so the comparison can be made with the boards side by side rather than from a catalogue.
Wall Panels & Cladding
What is the difference between wall panels, wall cladding and louvers?
What is the difference between wall panels, wall cladding and louvers?
In practice the trade uses the terms interchangeably, and buyers search all three. Wall panel is the broadest — any decorative board fixed to a wall. Wall cladding usually implies covering a whole wall surface, and is the term architects and designers reach for most. Louvers (also fluted panels) are the ribbed, three-dimensional variety with vertical grooves. If you have seen a slatted wood feature wall behind a TV or a bed, that is a louver panel. We carry all of it under Louvers and Wall Panels.
Which wall panel material should I choose — PVC, WPC or MDF?
Which wall panel material should I choose — PVC, WPC or MDF?
Pick by where it is going. PVC is fully waterproof, light and the right answer for bathrooms, balconies and any semi-open or exterior wall — it reads a little more synthetic up close. WPC (charcoal) is the all-rounder: a convincing wood grain with strong water and termite resistance, which is why most indoor feature walls end up here. MDF gives the richest, deepest finish for dry indoor areas but should be kept away from moisture entirely.
Can wall panels be installed over an existing wall or tiles?
Can wall panels be installed over an existing wall or tiles?
Yes, in most cases. Panels are typically fixed to a light batten framework or bonded directly to a sound, level surface, which is why they are common in renovations — there is no demolition and no wet work. Over tiles, the surface needs to be firmly bonded and reasonably flat. Very uneven or damp walls should be battened out and the damp dealt with first, or the problem simply moves behind the panel.
How much wall panelling do I need for my wall?
How much wall panelling do I need for my wall?
Measure the wall in feet, multiply width by height for the area, then add roughly 10% for cuts and wastage — more if the wall has windows, sockets or an irregular shape, since every obstruction creates offcuts. Each panel range lists its coverage per piece, so divide your adjusted area by that figure. Bring your measurements to either showroom and we will work it through with you against the specific range you like.
Are decorative wall panels suitable for bathrooms and outdoor walls?
Are decorative wall panels suitable for bathrooms and outdoor walls?
PVC and WPC panels are, and both are widely used in bathrooms, balconies and covered outdoor areas — they do not swell, rot or attract termites the way untreated wood does. MDF-based panels are not suitable for wet or exposed locations. For anything fully exposed to sun and rain, check the specific range: UV stability varies, and a panel rated for a covered balcony is not automatically rated for an open terrace.